Sunday, 26 March 2017

3/17/17 - Lithuania Part 3 - Mountain Banshee, Sea Banshee

DAY 4 - 3/16/17 - Thursday
New Digs & Day Trip to Kaunas

On Thursday, I said goodbye to Zivile and headed out with my big orange backpack (aka the "turtle", compliments of Flannery Bethel aka Baby Honey aka Flantasy aka Nanny). I bussed and then walked to my next accommodation, a hostel called Jimmy Jumps House in the heart of the city right next to the town hall. I picked this hostel because it got great reviews, and the vibe was immediately pleasant and fun. They had everything - friendly staff, laundry service, beanbag chairs, comfy beds, grenade launcher, the list goes on and on.

Also a dope waffle breakfast.

I left my bag at the hostel and set off for Kaunas, Lithuania's second-largest city. Per usual, after some confusion on my part about how to buy a ticket, I jumped on the train literally as it was pulling away from the station. What followed was a pleasant one-hour ride through the Lithuanian countryside, costing about €6. I ended up spending several hours in Kaunas and walking a total of 19km (about 12 miles).

It didn't take long to find the main city square and promenade with a beautiful church sitting in the middle. Apparently the promenade floor had been dirt for many months, and when I arrived they were just finishing up re-paving it in lovely light grey stone.

Promenade & Church.

Everyone loves a good panorama.

Inside the church - "Jezus Kristus yra Viešpats" = "Jesus Christ is Lord".

Looking out from the front steps of the church.

Promenading.

My first destination was Kaunas Castle (Kauno Pilis in Lithuanian), an actual medieval castle built in the 14th century. The creepiest part was the basement/dungeon, where they had a fun "ghost" projection to scare the living daylights out of guests.

Cool artwork looking at the castle.

What dummy would fall for this? Me, apparently.

Standing on the top level of the castle. Special appearance by the sun.

Full view of the castle.

Next I headed over to a viewpoint hill, and was looking forward to taking the funicular (tram) up for a bit of a rest. Alas, I arrived four minutes after it closed. Although since it was built almost a hundred years ago this may have been for the best. Plus the biggest benefactor in all of this was my butt muscles so I guess it was a win overall.

Funicular on the left, stairs on the right.

Artist depiction of me climbing the hill.

Finally at the top!

Ok, I guess it was worth it. Notice the basketball next to "Lietuva" (Lithuania) by the river.

Located at the top of the funicular. I hope your life, like mine, became a little brighter realizing that trash cans in Lithuania are called "smelis".

After the photo op I went down the hill and headed off for the last couple of sights. Since the sun was about to go down, the lighting was gorgeous. My first stop was the Kaunas Town Hall, and second was Christ's Resurrection Church, which has an amazing panoramic view of the city. There is an elevator to get to the rooftop of Christ's Resurrection Church, but I opted to take the stairs because I hate my feet. On the way I found some cool wall art.

Graffiti in Lithuania is truly on another level.

Kaunas Town Hall and Square. Blue sky making an appearance.

View of Kaunas from the rooftop of Christ's Resurrection Church.

Rooftop of Christ's Resurrection Church, I wasn't kidding about the lighting.

Rooftop of Christ's Resurrection Church.

I headed back to Vilnius on the train - exhausted, fulfilled, and happy to have a few moments to rest. When I got back to my hostel all was quiet and I went straight to sleep in preparation for an early morning the next day.

Just kidding, I went out to the bars until 4am with some hostel mates: a Scot, an Argentinian, two Aussies, and a Brit. We accidentally crashed the graduation party of a Lithuanian university class, which included live music and a limbo contest, and other things that none of us understood. Tai gyvenimas.


DAY 5 - 3/17/17 - Friday
Klaipėda And Back: A Story of 8 Hours On Trains

I woke up in a sweaty hostel room full of snoring people. Nothing could dampen my spirits though, as I was planning on heading to the seaside for the night! My original plan was to leave for Klaipėda - the biggest coastal town on the West side of Lithuania - at 6:30am. I ended up leaving closer to 10, and had a nice 4 hour journey to Klaipėda during which I slept, read, and gazed out at the rainy countryside. Luckily, I've discovered that I absolutely love train rides.

Once at my destination, I set off for a hostel I had found online, hoping they would have an open bed for the night. They did not, and I went to a coffee shop to regroup and have something hot to drink. By this point I was soaking wet because - did I mention? - it was pouring rain. 

Rainy streets of Klaipėda.

Bunker in a playground with a tree growing out of it?

Boat  Ship.

Thank the coffee and chocolate cake Gods above.

Ah well, that's the excitement of traveling. I came up with a plan to check out the Curonian spit, as my one big goal was to see and touch the Baltic Sea. As the weather was so terrible and there were no open hostels (some kind of tour group had come into town and booked them all up), I decided to take the last train back to Vilnius at 6pm after seeing the spit.

The Curonian Spit is an amazing natural rock and sand formation about 500 meters off the west coastline of Lithuania. The southern half is actually Russian territory. It is only accessible by ferry, and forms a barrier between Lithuania and the Baltic Sea, meaning that the only way to get to the sea is to take a ferry to the spit and then hike another 2.5 kilometers across it. Using the power of Google, I found a ferry port which seemed functional. The journey to the ferry port proved to be quite interesting, as I accidentally ended up on some industrial back roads. But at least it had stopped raining!


Cool - an old Russian train!

Huh, looking pretty industrial out here. And desolate.

Yes, just what I was hoping to see on my solo walk by the train tracks.

Amazingly, I arrived at the ferry port alive. For anyone wanting to have their own adventure in Klaipėda, the port was called "AB Smiltynės perkėla, Naujoji perkėla". I trust you can remember that. 

At first my heart sank thinking only cars were allowed, but the kind old man working the port explained (using gestures) that I needed to buy a ticket at the machine and then could come aboard. The ticket cost 80 cents. Joining me on the ferry were a few fishermen, and about twenty cars. It was cold and windy, but I couldn't contain my excitement at being so near the Baltic Sea.

Not pictured: seagull party.

I got off the ferry and headed for the entrance of the park, which luckily had a sign. During warmer months this is a popular destination, but since it was the off season I didn't see a single soul from when I got off the ferry to when I returned.

It's bigger than it looks.

"There You are!"

Starting out - cloudy and peaceful.

Hiking through the park was a magical experience. It was at first eerie, and then calming and empowering to walk through this beautiful place completely alone.

Lovely, lovely woods.

"Total beach" (?), according to Google translate.

I nearly cried when I got to the top of the dune and saw the ocean for the first time. It was breathtaking. There was something about it that just felt different than the Oregon coast, I think it was the way the sun reflected off the water.

No more rain here, only tears (of joy).

Selfie with my new sea pal.

Exciting just to look at!

My legs and the BALTIC SEA! I touched it too. It was cold.

After walking alongside the sea for awhile, picking up shells and thinking about how lucky I was to be in such a beautiful place, I headed back out and hiked across the spit back to the ferry. Myself and the fishermen rode back to the Klaipėda port and I tried to figure out how I would get back to the train station.

Goodbye dear sea.

By this point I realized I was not going to make the 6pm train, aka the last train back to Vilnius. Luckily, after some frantic searching, I found a bus heading back around 8pm. I took a city bus to the bus station, and then took the 4 hour bus ride back to Vilnius. I arrived back at the Vilnius station - which now feels like home - at midnight, and walked the 20 minutes back to the hostel.

I call this "Portrait of Klaipėda Hotel Through Dirty Bus Window".

Walking to the bus station. Feeling much more comfortable in train yards now.

Sunset view just before heading into the bus station. What a day!

Klaipėda bus station. 

Once back at Jimmy Jumps House I stopped into the common room for some tea, then went to bed.

Haha - nope! I went out again, this time to a club called Salento with a group of Spaniards. We didn't even leave for the bar until 2am, which they say is typical for Spain. They were awesome and so was the bar. Coat check was free and the drinks were around €4, which let's be honest are really my only standards. We danced on the tables and stayed out until the sun rose the next morning.

Wednesday, 22 March 2017

3/15/17 - Lithuania Part 2 - Banshee Getting Bearings

Looking out at the square in front of Vilnius Town Hall


It took a couple of days to get adjusted to Lithuania, but I absolutely love it here. If only Lithuanian wasn't so difficult to learn. Not only are there very little resources for it, but along with Latvian, Lithuanian is one of only two Baltic languages in the world and is supposed to be one of the hardest languages to learn. Apparently Russian is very easy in comparison. Great.

One of the only Lithuanian words I know - ačiū (pronounced "ah-choo") - meaning "thank you". As in "thank you for putting some pleasant graffiti on this wall".


Here's a rundown of my first few days in Lithuania:

DAY 1 - 3/13/17 - Monday

Slept. Drank salty water. Attempted laundry.


DAY 2 - 3/14/17 - Tuesday

Much more successful. Woke up and lazed around in bed for a couple of hours - if you can call it lazing at five in the morning. Eventually Zivile woke up and we chatted for awhile before she headed off to work. She recommended a breakfast place in town called Mano Guru, which is know for hiring ex-criminals in need of jobs. I took the bus into town and walked to the restaurant, which was difficult because the entire street it was on was being torn out and reconstructed.

Surprisingly, this had a negative effect on business.


Afterwards I went on the free Vilnius city tour, which was excellent. Myself and twenty other tourists were led around the various areas of Vilnius and taught about some of its history for two hours.

Front of the Vilnius Town Hall.

Užupis angel sculpture.

Church of St. Francis and St. Bernard (Vilniaus Šv. Pranciškaus Asyžiečio bažnyčia).

Front of the Vilnius Presidential Palace - the flag on top is raised when the president is in the capital.

Back of the Vilnius Presidential Palace. Lithuania currently has its first female president, Dalia Grybauskaitė, who holds a black belt in karate.


Church of St. Johns.


Despite its vibrancy nowadays, Lithuania has a tragic history when it comes to Judaism. During World War II the country was considered a kind of safe haven, with persecuted Jews taking refuge there and the population rising to over 250,000. Unfortunately Lithuania eventually could not resist Nazi occupation, and by 1945 95% of the Jewish population was murdered. Heavy stuff, not to be forgotten.

Children playing in what was once the largest Jewish ghetto in Vilnius.

Informative sign in front of the former location of a large synagogue.

Location where the synagogue once was is now remodeled and used as a school.


On to lighter tour topics: Old Town Vilnius contains a separate "country": a quirky district catering to artists called Užupio (pronounced "oo-juh-pesht"), which declared itself a republic on April 1 1997. They have their own president, constitution, and even a 12-member "military". Although not technically recognized as a real country by Lithuania, every year on April 1 they have a festival where the "borders" are closed and a passport must be shown to get in. This passport can be any form of notebook or artwork.

Republic of Užupio sign & our tour guide, Milda.

Magical pillar that gives energy when you touch it. #science

Art.

"Colorful and with a lot of miraculous mushrooms".

Hand with circle - the symbol of Užupio.


Part of the constitution (with my dazzling reflection). "12. A dog has the right to be a dog". Its the law y'all.

Užupio constitution is engraved in 26 different languages!

Standing by the Užupio river/moat.


After the tour, I took a rest at a cafe with some tea, and then went to meet my new Lithuanian pal Linas. Linas is a native of Vilnius, and I got connected with him through my homegirl Flannery, who studied abroad with him in France. Although he is very busy living in a seminary and studying to be a priest, Linas ended up being the BEST tour guide I could have asked for. I first met him on Tuesday at a hospice center, where he goes every week to visit patients. He gave me a Lithuanian SIM card for my phone, and a brief history and tour of the hospice center, which has 14 inpatient beds and serves approximately 100 patients in their homes.

After this meeting, Linas and his four fellow seminarians dropped me off at the Vilnius Cathedral. I decided to go up into the belfry, which ended up being a great decision, as it happened to turn 17:00 while I was there and the bells went off! It was pretty incredible. 

Here are some photos and a professional-quality video I shot in the style of "The Blair Witch Project" so you can see for yourself:


The stairs were steeper than they looked...

Old rusty clock face / possible future decoration in rich yuppie home.

View from the top of the belfry.

In case you are in a situation requiring you to rappel out of the belfry, and somehow also have your wits about you enough to figure this device out.

Another view from the top of the belfry. Sun was starting to set.

Belfry and Cathedral side view.

Belfry and Cathedral front view. #workit


That's it for Day 2! Pretty packed full of adventures and getting to know Vilnius.


DAY 3 - 3/15/17 - Wednesday

The highlight of this day was a Lithuanian history lesson and candy tasting with Linas. The history was interesting enough in itself. Lithuania was first mentioned in writings in 1009AD, and formed the state of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in the 1200s. In the 14th century a union was formed with Poland, and for a time Lithuania was the largest state in Europe. However Lithuania seems to have the absolute worst luck, and starting in 1795, they lost independence and went through a series of rulings by other countries. The first was Soviet occupation, followed by Nazi occupation during WWII, and then Soviet again, until Lithuania finally claimed independence in 1990. Most of the older people living in Lithuania grew up under Soviet rule, and since the country joined the EU in 2004 and didn't start using Euros until 2015, they have gone through several different types of money in the past 30 years. 

Somewhere along the way, several delicious candies were created, and for that we can be thankful. Linas and I sat at a coffee shop and tried six different candies, pictured below.


The real facts you were waiting for - from left to right:
- Frozen cheesecake-like bar with condensed milk filling and chocolate coating.
- Chocolate wafers & chocolate hazelnut creme with chocolate coating.
- Soviet-era candy literally called "cow"; chewy highly sugared condensed milk with gooey center.
- Fruity jam bar with wafer layer and chocolate coating (you can sense a theme here).
- Crunchy chocolate hazelnut creme with chocolate coating.
- Smooth chocolate hazelnut creme with chocolate coating.

Later I did my own tasting of delicious cereal candy bars.

After the candy tasting (furthest right candy came in 1st), we walked around the city for a bit and Linas showed me Vilnius University, where he did his undergraduate degree.

I can't remember what this is but its nice huh?

Part of Vilnius University.

Linas - Lithuanian Model Extraordinaire

Often cars were parked like this on narrow streets, blocking each other in. Linas said that the owners would leave a note with their phone # on the other car, and they would simply call each other when they needed to get out.

Vilnius University.

Essentials of sightseeing: H&M Lithuania!

And of course, my brand new car. They even named it after me, so thoughtful.

That's a wrap Day 3!

Side bar:
I've been curious as to what draws people to visit Lithuania, as it doesn't have a well known reputation like other countries in Europe. I've found from talking to other tourists that the majority are either Europeans who found cheap flights to Vilnius for the weekend, long-term travelers hopping through nearby countries, or others like myself who have an ancestral connection to Lithuania. It's status as a relatively hidden gem makes the place feel even more special to visit. There is so much history and so many interesting things to see, and their tourism services are truly top notch.