Thursday, 25 May 2017

4/02/17 - Milan Part 2 - Banshee & Friends Conquer The Duomo

DAY 3 - 3/29/17 - Wednesday

Wednesday was spent walking almost as much as the days beforehand - a measly 9.6 miles. Much of this was done during a tour of the city that Anthony - a new friend from my hostel - took me on. He had been living and studying in Milan for about a month but was in the process of moving, thus why he was staying at the hostel.

I honestly don't remember what I did that morning, so it probably wasn't very exciting. It is reasonable to assume that whatever it was involved dessert of some kind.

Also passing by a pretty courtyard, according to this photographic evidence.

Anthony is also a photographer, and he took some nice photos of me enjoying the city. Besides those, I don't have a ton of photos from this day. Anthony and I wandered from the south of the city towards the north, passing the canals and getting delicious gelato on the way. We saw cherry blossom trees and beautiful green terraces, and stopped into a music shop to try a guitar, because he is thinking of buying one and I had been going through guitar withdrawals since I left Portland. This ended up being one of the most entertaining parts of the day - the owner showed us a guitar and as he is an exceptional guitar player himself, he played several songs for us. It was like a private concert right in the middle of the store. At the end he played "Scarborough Fair" and we all sang. Anthony didn't buy the guitar then, but said he was going to come back and get it later.

Enjoying a view of the canal,

Thinking about the gelato in my future!

A shot of the majestic Duomo.

After leaving the guitar shop, Anthony and I took the metro back to our hostel. We were planning on making dinner together with another new friend from the hostel, Benjamin, from France. We each had some ingredients to contribute and made a yummy dinner of rice, steak, and vegetables. 

Throughout the dinner process other people from the hostel joined our table, and we ended up doing an impromptu karaoke session, with Slava from Ukraine beat boxing. After that Slava suggested playing a "game", where everyone would talk to each other at the same time in their native language. This proved to be highly entertaining, especially to Slava. It didn't last too long though as none of us could understand each other. Food and music truly are the universal languages.


DAY 4 - 3/30/17 - Thursday

Really not a lot to report from Thursday. I went to the park and ate strawberries.

Possibly napped. Possibly got gelato.

Seriously, this is all I did.


DAY 5 - 3/31/17 - Friday

I suppose Thursday could have been the calm before the storm of Friday. And I use "storm" in the best possible way, because it was epic.

Back in Lithuania, I had met four Italian guys at my hostel in Vilnius who happened to be from Milan. Andrea, Jack, Maurizio, and Luigi spent that weekend having fun 110% of the time, and doing "Italian Karaoke", which involves drinking and singing along to songs off of youtube. We arranged to meet up once I got Milan.

Andrea had given me some suggestions for things to see in Milan, including the Cimitero Monumentale and the Chiesa di San Maurizio. I went to see both that afternoon before meeting up with the guys, and they were amazing! Top quality recommendations.

The entrance to the cemetary

Heading in, possibly not coming back out.

The cemetery was old and magnificent, and contained several crypts of Italian catholic families. There were trees and fresh flowers everywhere, and the rows of crypts looked a little like a well-kept neighborhood. If it wasn't for all of the dead people and lack of actual furniture I would consider living there.

Also the ghosts.

Nicer than most of the hostels I've stayed at.

Lovely, tree lined neighborhood row of tombs.

There was a watering can station and spigot for people to water flowers. 

The inside portion - majestic and ominous.

After visiting the cemetery, I met up with Benjamin and we got lunch at a fancy restaurant nearby. I got some kind of gnocchi and it was delightful, We also got a free lunchtime show - a hilarious fat cat rolling around right outside the window.

A natural performer.

After lunch we went and sat in nearby Parco Sempione for awhile, and then went to the Chiesa di San Maurizio. This church is pretty unknown and not so touristy, and it was incredible. Every single surface was covered in beautiful frescoes. It was fun simply walking around looking at everything, and we spent a good amount of time doing just that.

Main room of the church.

Ceiling fresco with gold detail.

Second room.

Fresco of Noah's arc.

Fresco of a snake lady wrapped around a fruit tree. Quality.

What else - a panorama!

Afterwards, Benjamin and I parted ways, and I debated going back to my hostel before deciding to go to the park and read. First I got an ice cream bar, because I'm on vacation damn it!

And I can do what I want. And ice cream is delicious. 

Currently reading: 1984 by George Orwell.

I read 1984 for awhile in the park. Unlike most of America who apparently read it in high school, I had never read it before. I have since finished the book and it was excellent but very creepy and terrifying. Let's hope it doesn't come true.

Anyway, back to reality. After a couple of blissful hours reading I finally met up with Andrea and Jack. It was a great reunion! We went to a bar for a quick aperitivo, then to another bar for a couple of drinks. Andrea told me they had a surprise for later on that involved Italian Karaoke.

Can hardly wait!

We went to meet up with the other guys and I found out what the surprise was - a giant boombox with an aux cord connection. We all walked to a piazza where there were hundreds of other young people drinking and hanging out. Nearby there was a crowded "bar" (more of just a counter) that sold ridiculously cheap and strong drinks. If you tried shit like this in Oregon I would imagine it would result in some type of drunken riot. They also said that even though it appeared to me that the square was packed full of people, it was actually a relatively "quiet" night. Apparently in the summer it gets so crowded you can hardly move through.

We spent the rest of the evening playing songs through the boombox and belting them out together in true Italian Karaoke fashion. It was a blast. Around 4am street sweeper trucks came around, forcing everyone to leave the square. The true die-hard karaoke fans left over decided to head to the Duomo to continue the party.

Andrea led the charge with the boombox on his shoulder, and together about 20 of us marched and sang our way to the famous Duomo di Milano. We sat and sang - or yelled - on the steps for another couple of hours. A few people who were out and about even came over and put in requests for specific songs. 

At some point along the way, we found an Italian 101 language course book. Naturally we picked it up and the guys quizzed me from it and read excerpts throughout the night. This must be what people mean by drinking responsibly.

It's definitely responsible if you have educational materials somewhere within reach.

I ended up back at my hostel around 7am, and promptly got some much needed sleep. Haha, guess again! I had planned to skype my family at 7:30, so I did that, after being awake for 24 hours straight. It went as expected. I may have been a little drunk still.


DAY 6 - 4/01/17 - Saturday

As you could maybe guess, I did not get a lot done on Saturday. The skype sesh was probably my main accomplishment. After that I went to bed for awhile - finally!

I also headed into town for another calzone, so that was a win too I guess.

And I took this - the only photo of the afternoon.

Later on that evening, I met back up with everyone from the night before, and a few more friends, for pizza at a Napolitano restaurant. While there we met Silvio Burlusconi - an ex prime minister of Italy!

Ok, it was actually Luigi in a mask, but same thing.

Selfies with Silvio.

Dinner was great, and afterwards we went in search of tequila shots, because it had been over 12 hours since I had had a drink. We were all pretty tired though, and Andrea's shoulder was aching from carrying the boom box the night before. I actually went to bed at a reasonable hour that night, and had a decent amount of sleep. Imagine that! 


DAY 7 - 4/02/17 - Sunday

My last day in Milan! I can't believe how fast it went by. I really love this city and I would live here in a heartbeat. 

I had a train ticket to Florence that afternoon, so I had a few hours in the morning to do one last activity in Milan. The activity I chose was going to the Crazy Cat Cafe, a cafe where there were actual live cats roaming around.

Here's the outside. Inside are cats.

The cafe had double doors and a buzzer system so that the cats couldn't escape. Although I doubt many would even try, as most of them were asleep the entire time I was there. 

Grey cat asleep.

Orange and white cat asleep.

Calico cat asleep.

Different grey cat asleep.

Didn't even wake up for his close-up.

The food was actually pretty good, and the coffee was served in a little mug shaped like a cat's head. I got a tasty dessert flight because if you couldn't tell by now I LOVE DESSERT.

Cats, everywhere.

This ones awake!!

Later on, upon arriving in Florence, I skyped with my parents and got to see another cat - Creamsicle, head of the Orange Cat Club of Portland and the best cat in the world.

One of us was more excited than the other.

And with that, I said goodbye to Milan for the time being. What a great week. I was excited to get to Florence, where I would have my own private room for the first time in three weeks. I nearly missed my train, as usual, but only because the Milan Centrale train station is so damn confusing. 

All's well that ends well though; I arrived at Firenze Santa Maria Novella station and spent the rest of the day relaxing in my private room, and getting ready for my two-week Italian course starting the next day.

My room even has a balcony! Living the dream.

Tuesday, 23 May 2017

3/28/17 - Milan Part 1 - Banshee Mangia Tutto

DAY 1 - 3/27/17 - Monday
Off To A Great Start

As I said before, it was daylight savings time the night before my flight to Milan. I'll save the drama and tell you right off that I made my flight. But not before I was awoken at 5:45am to the woman who owned the house knocking vehemently on the door and shouting in French that it wasn't 6am, but 7am. Disoriented and with all of my packing and getting ready to do, I checked and re-checked the time and came to the conclusion that either she was off on the time, or the international time standard online was wrong. I chose to believe the first, but still packed and left hurriedly, adding my shampoo and conditioner to the long list of things I have left behind so far.

Racing to the airport with my heavy bag on my back, I stopped to snap this photo of the gorgeous sunrise.

One thing going right so far.

I was flying with Ryanair, and the absolute scumbags people just trying to do their jobs don't allow you to print off a boarding pass if you don't check in online within a two hour window of your flight. In my haste I had forgotten to do this - NEVER AGAIN. It cost me more than I had paid for the flight to get a ticket printed off at the counter. At least I know now.

After getting through security with my "carry-on" bag that is definitely too large for a carry on, but which I've managed to get through every time as it doesn't seem to be anyone's job to monitor this (pro-tip), my flight took off and landed without a hitch in Milan.

View from the air - either France or Italy.

Once at the Milan airport I bought an Italian SIM card for my phone from a money changing kiosk. This turned out to be one of the smartest traveling purchases I've made, as it was only €25 and allowed me to have internet anywhere for about three weeks.

Highly recommended.

I took the metro to my hostel, which was located to the north-east of the city. It was called Hostel Colours and was a nice place with clean comfy beds and a large common area with huge shared industrial kitchen. I ended up meeting some great people there, the first of which were two awesome girls from Hong Kong who let me tag along and explore the city with them for two days. They were not only great friends but also had done a considerable amount of research on the best places to eat in Milan, which made my life cake as I simply followed along.

The three of us checked into our dorm room at the same time, and almost immediately set out together to check out the main part of town and more importantly to get a delicious calzone.

Cool Duomo. But where are the calzones?!

Ahh, finally.

This calzone was seriously one of the best things I have ever eaten. It is amazing in Italy how a lot of the food is so simple - in this case just dough, tomato sauce and mozzarella - but tastes heavenly. I bit into this calzone and all I could think of was how unfair it was that Italians get to eat like this every single day.

I felt like Ben Wyatt from Parks and Rec with his calzone obsession. Like, I get it now. And you will too if you ever get to go to Luini.

They closed about 15 minutes after we got there, at 3pm, after running out of calzones.

Afterwards, because we hadn't been spoiled enough, we went around the corner and treated ourselves to gelato.

Because we deserve it.

We then went to explore some actual monuments, mostly to save ourselves from binge eating more calzones and gelato.

The first stop was the famous Duomo of Milan. Pictures cannot accurately represent just how enormous it is. Even vertical panoramas. It was built over a span of 600 hundred years, starting in the 14th century, and is the largest cathedral in Italy. 

Tiny people for scale.

View of the square from the front of the Duomo. Panoramas don't work too well when people walk right through them.

Inside the Duomo.

Even the floor is a work of art!

Statue inside the Duomo.

Golden statue and stained glass.

After wandering around the cool, dark interior of the Duomo in awe for awhile, we went to explore the "archaeological exhibit" in the basement. It was essentially the oldest parts of the cathedral, some from the first century AD, which had been unearthed beneath the surface of the "new" cathedral. Pretty amazing and mind blowing to see architecture from so long ago.

You can see bits of the old stone floor pattern on the left.

Ancient stone.

After being mesmerized by history for awhile, we switched gears and headed outside to the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, right next door to the Duomo. This is an indoor shopping street that includes storefronts for Prada, Lous Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, and more. Basically the kind of place it would be fun to spend several hours in if you are a Kardashian, or a few minutes in if you are us.

It was nice to look at though!

For the fancy people.

Now this is my kind of store.

After taking plenty of pictures and snapchat stories, we headed on and walked to the Castello Sforzesco, near the Parco Sempione in the north-west of the city.

Inside the castle courtyard. I could live here.

More of the castle.

Standing in front of probably a famous archway that I can't find any information on right now.

There's that sunset lighting!

We ended the night with some truly incredible pizza (almost calzone status) at a restaurant that my two friends had gotten a recommendation for, and then a view of the Duomo at night - even more grand and daunting than during the day.

I can't even look at this I want it so bad right now.

Look at that beauty.


DAY 2 - 3/28/17 - Tuesday
Statues & Sweets

Tuesday was spent mostly eating and walking around, aka the perfect day. We decided to walk into town from the hostel, which took about 40 minutes, but the path went along the Corso Buenos Aires and contained almost every store you could ever want to visit. The best one by far was the Lindt store. It had not only every kind of Lindt truffle you could imagine, but a larger-than-life size poster of The Chocolate Man - the man pictured on the back of Lindt chocolate bars who takes chocolate making VERY SERIOUSLY.

Look at that concentration. Don't overfill that truffle, buddy.

Heaven.

During our walk we passed by the Planetarium of Milan, and went in for a look. Unfortunately all of their shows for the month contained too much Italian to be enjoyed by people who don't understand it. However, we did get to marvel at a periodic table which was entirely in Italian and showcased actual samples of many of the elements. Did you know that "lead" in Italian is "piombo"? Makes much more sense than our stupid language, huh?

They did not have a sample of Uuo. So I give it an A-.

Our journey led us past lots of cool shops and interesting fashions. People-watching in Milan is fantastic but also has a way of making you feel like a big slob. Everyone is dressed impeccably, even the children. It was fun looking at all of the creative storefronts though, even if we didn't want to tempt ourselves by going inside.

Nothing is more fashionable than cat shoes.

"Make love not walls" - a Diesel campaign projected around the city. Hell yes.

Surprisingly Tupac knee socks haven't become a big fashion trend (yet).

We had originally planned to go to the Duomo museum the day before when we went to the actual Duomo, but like many things in Italy it was closed on Mondays. So we went on Tuesday. The museum showcases lots of out of commission statues and old objects from the Duomo over the centuries, as well as an amazing scale model of the building and examples of the stained glass inside.

The most entertaining part of this experience was that the Duomo scale model had a ridiculously sensitive security feature, so anytime anyone so much as breathed too close to it the alarms went off. This happened about once every 15 minutes.

Trying to blend in.

Statues everywhere. Always watching.

Watching, and waiting.

After leaving the Duomo museum and being almost blinded by the bright sunlight outside, we decided to get some drinks and sit in the park for awhile. As I said, its a rough life over here.

It's not a vertical panorama but it's still pretty.

We went to a bar and discovered that you can get take-away drinks - a novel concept for someone from Oregon, the land of OLCC. I ordered a spritz, which is a common Italian cocktail made with Aperol and prosecco. It was refreshing and delicious.

Not quite gelato but a close second.

Italians know how to do it right.

Beers & friends & the park!

At this point there is not much more to report; we spent a few hours intermittently talking and sleeping in the park. It was great. Afterwards we walked to another delicious restaurant and had dinner.

Sunset in Milan.

Can't go wrong with pasta!

I'd also like to take this moment report that over these two days, I walked a total of 23.3 miles! So I guess I deserve all of that pasta and gelato. Keep it coming.